Basic Ingredient Chart

         Commen Ingredients found in Anti-Aging Creams and Moisturizers

Acetate: an acetic acid salt,the word that follows or precedes acetate on an ingredient list determines the function.

Acetone: solvent commonly used in fingernail polish removers and toners; can be drying and irritating depending on concentration. Non-acne forming.

Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol: helps soften skin and has anti-allergenic tendencies; is highly prone to comedogenicity (causes blackheads and/or whiteheads)-this is an example of an alcohol that is not drying.

Acrylates Copolymer: active ingredient in an oil-absorbing gel, like Clinac O.C.

Acrylates/Octylpropenamide Copolymer: creates a water-repelling basis for cosmetics claiming water-proof properties.

Alcohol SD-40: sometimes listed as SD Alcohol 40 and synomymous with alcohol SDA-40, it is a high grade purified cosmetic alcohol. Evaporates instantly, so it is used as a vehicle to transport important ingredients to the skin’s surface and then leave them there; gentler to the skin than ethyl (rubbing) alcohol. May help kill bacteria.

Algae/Seaweed Extract: an emollient, restoring moisture content to skin; claims to have antioxidant properties. Thanks to its water-binding properties algae is a potent moisturizer. Moreover, algae contain vital trace elements, such as Iron, Zinc, Magnesium, Copper, and Silicon, that are decisive for the metabolic processes of the skin.

Allantoin: a botanical thought to have calming properties to the skin that help resolve irritation. Allantoin was discovered by soldiers during the first world war and has been used as a clinical wound heeler ever since. It is an excellent anti-irritant that aids in the healing of damaged skin by stimulating new tissue growth.


Aloe Vera: ha s been used since biblical times as an ointment for burns, cuts, and rashes. However, heavy marketing in recent years has made this fantastic herb something of a “skin care cliché”. Aloe vera is not a miracle medicine. Nevertheless it contains enzymes with anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties as well as to help control acne.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid : an active ingredient derived from fruit acids. Helps exfoliate the top layers of the epidermis: by dissolving the “glue-like” substance in the stratum corneum. This dissolving causes already dead skin cells to slough off the surface more quickly than usual. This increase the cell turnover which stimulates new collagen fibers to grow in the dermis decresing wrinkles as well as improving overall texture of the skin. It also promotes moisture restoration and helps penetration of other ingredients; highly sought after for use in anti-aging and bleaching skin care products. May irritate the skin but do not advance skin aging. Buffering the pH helps make them less irritating to the skin. AHA’s include: citric acid (citrus fruits), glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (milk), and the less common AHAs used in cosmetics malic acid (apples) and tartaric acid (wine). AHAs increase sun sensitivity due to their exfoliant behavior.

Alpha Lipoic Acid: a very strong antioxidant; is both water and fat soluble so it can go to many areas of a cell. How ever it has a strong order of rotton eggs and has to be showered with strong fragrences in cosmetic products.

Alum: usually in crystal or powder form; has strong astringent properties; used in stypic sticks, popular with men who often nick themselves shaving.

Ascorbic Acid: vitamin C; used as an antioxidant in its L-ascorbic acid form, can have skin lightening effect in certain preparations, is important to keeping as well as rebuilding healthy collagen fibers. Shelf life is short, up to 3 months if not in a dark cool environment.

Ascorbyl Palmitate: preservative with antioxidant properties: its presence helps make possible the blending of vitamins A, C, and D into a suspension.

Beeswax: waxy component in many skin care products; provides moisture as well as a barrier mechanism. Allows for oil and water blending (emulsion).

Benzoyl Peroxide: antibacterial agent kills p. acnes, the germ responsible for acne flares. Can be drying and/or irritating. Some reports of benzoyl peroxide skin allergies. Available in both prescription and OTC forms ranging from 2 ½ -10%.

Beta Hydroxy Acid: new term for salicylic acid, .a long term ingredient used for exfoliation the skin. Has the strongest ability of all the acids to cleanse the pores. It will reduce pore size as its cleanses in its natural state after two or three applications.

Boric Acid: used as a preservative to prevent yeast overgrowth. While an antiseptic agent, it is out of favor for use in skin care products due to its irritancy potential.

Black Tea and or Green: Black and green teas contain large quantities of polyphenols. Polyphenols have been shown to have anti-inflammatory and anti-viral properties. Furthermore, polyphenols are powerful antioxidants that helps delay the aging process and protects the skin from free-radicals (a by-product of the body that can cause damage to skin cells and tissues).

Caffeine: used to alleviate puffiness under eyes, stimulates cellular circulation, sooth, firm, and tighten.

Camphor: a cooling agent used to help alleviate itching and irritation in many skin care and medicated products.

Calendula: is recognized for its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. It is considered one of the most effective herbal remedies for skin irritations such as wounds and rashes.

Carbomers (934, 940, 941, 980, 981): stabilize and thicken products.

Carmine: red pigment; found in many mascaras, and it can be irritating.

Caviar (Roe Extract): fish eggs high in mineral and vitamin content (B1,2,6, as well as A,E & D). Promoted as useful for improving the health and appearance of maturing skin.

Cellulose: plant matter used to as a thickener, also helps suspend oil and water formulations.

Centella Asiatica:This herb that can be found only in Madagascar, increases collagen synthesis and strengthens capillaries and veins by repairing damaged connective tissue surrounding them. Centella Asiatica reduces dark under-eye circles, strengthens, and heals.

Ceramides: epidermal hydrating agent; expensive due to its scarcity.

Ceteareth: cetearyl and stearyl alcohols combined for use as a lubricant.

Cetyl Alcohol: lubricant and helps emulsify oil and water formulations. Is non- irritating nor drying and is not related to isopropyl alcohol. Not supposed to be acne-forming.

Coenzyme Q10: CoQ10 is an antioxidant.  It reportedly helps neutralize harmful free radicals, which are one of the causes of aging. Thus, CoQ10 may boost skin repair and regeneration and reduce free radical damage. Furthermore, CoQ10 is a small molecule that can relatively easily penetrate into skin cells.

Collagen: the main supporting fiber located within the dermis, gives strength and provides structure. You cannot replace lost collagen by applying it to your skin as it is incapable of penetration, as being miss represented by the cosmetic companies, but topical collagen is able to moisturize and hydrate by holding many times its own weight in water at a high enough percentage to be effective.

Cucumber Extract: The extract from the well-known vegetable cucumber sooths, softens, and moisturizes.

Cyclic Acid: a new term for Hyaluronic Acid: a strong hydrating complex holds 1000 times the water in skin.

Cyclomethicone: form of silicone; gives products a smooth texture without blocking pores.

Dimethicone: also a form of silcone; gives slip and glide to products: has been used in some scar therapies.

DMAE: another powerful antioxidant, this nutrient has one of the strongest appetites for free radicals. It works mostly by deactivating their power to harm skin cells. It also helps stabilize the membrane around the outside of each cell so that assaults from sun damage and cigarette smoke are reduced.  DMAE also prevents the formation of lipofucsin, the brown pigment that becomes the basis for age spots. But can it help with sagging skin, or is it just another rub-on facelift scam? The reality is somewhere in between. DMAE won't accomplish anything approaching a well-performed surgical face lift, but it is not useless either. In fact, it may be the fist agent proven in a study to have at least some positive effect on facial sag. DMAE reportedly has skin smoothing and tightening effects as in intstant face lift products.

EDTA: preservative: potential for causing contact dermatitis.

Elastin: a fiber within the dermis similar to collagen, gives support and “snap” to the skin. In topicals, it cannot penetrate the skin, but is great for protecting against moisture loss.

Ellagic Acid: this naturally occurring ingredient helps to inhibit the formation of sun and age spots.

Emu Oil: a natural ingredient which has been reported to enhances the body's own healing abilities! It is highly Penetrating, Non-comedogenic hypiallergenic, Non-irritating, Highly Moisturizing (it has been reported to help stimulate new skin cells, reduce wrinkles and sagging) and it has Anti-inflammatory properties by its self. It is use for more than inhansing the skin it has shown to be effective for sore muscles,(even arthritics)  burns, insect bites, rashes, bruises, rappid healing of sores, sun & wind burn and mixed with other ingredients it becomes a portel to get those ingredients passed the first layer of skin because of the penetration quallities.

Ethyl Alcohol: aka rubbing alcohol or ethanol; antibacterial function; usually too strong for regular use in cosmetics.

Glycerin: hydrates and provides a skin barrier; allows topical agents to go on very smoothly; a concern is clogging of pores when present in high concentrations.

Glycine: amino acid vital to collagen composition and production.

Glycogen: building block of sugar, acts as a conditioner.

Glycolic Acid: an alpha hydroxy acid. Helps with dry skin in lottions with strengths of 2% or less. For fine wrinkles, sun damaged, weathered skin and blotchy pigmentation a strenght of at 5% and above with a ph of 2.5.is needed to be effective. Used in chemical peels.

Glycol Stearate: thickening agent helps give products a luminescent or opalescent appearance.

Grape Seed Extract: a botanical extract, an excellent anti-oxidant and rich source of proanthocyanidins, a flavonoid type molecule that protects capillary walls and inhibits enzymes that breaks down collagen and elastin. Grape Seed extract helps Vitamin C enter the body's cells, thus strengthening the cell membranes, and protecting the cells from oxidative damage. Research has shown that proanthocyanidins (bioflavonoids) serve as major free radical scavengers. The proanthocyandins possess up to 50 times stronger antioxidant activity than Vitamin C & E, Beta-Carotene or Selenium.  Proanthocyanidins also help promote tissue elasticity, restore collagen and improve peripheral circulation.

Green Tea Extract: shown to be a powerful antioxidant and is found in Replenix.

Hyaluronic Acid: lately referred to as a “cyclic acid”; The biggest plus is its ability to hold water, up to 1,000 times its weight, which means more moisture in each skin cell. It also helps to draw in “active” ingredients deeper into the skin. Hyaluronic acid is responsible for holding moisture within the matrix of collagen and elastin in your skin acting as a kind of glue that helps hold them together, and is known to be one of nature's most powerful hydrators. Hyaluronic acid gives smoothness to rough skin surfaces and significantly improves skin's appearance. It has also been shown to reduce dryness, itching and burning. Made by the body, this nutrient's main job is to lubricate joints so that knees, elbows, fingers, and toes all move smoothly and easily. It has been said it is equally powerful taken in supplement form, though more research is needed to prove effectiveness.

Hydroquinone: skin pigment lightening agent; a maximum of 2% may be obtained over the counter; higher concentrations available by prescription. Not a safe ingredient!

Isopropyl Alcohol: vehicle with antibacterial properites; drying to the skin especially in higher concentrations.

Isopropyl Isostearate: emollient

Isopropyl Palmitate: emollient helps moisturize skin. No allergic potential although is derived from palm and/or coconut oils. Comedogenic in nature.

Isostearic Acid: fatty acid that forms film on skin.

Kaolin (China Clay): used in oil-absorbing powders and masques; highly absorbent.

Kojic Acid: skin lightener; touted as a bleaching agent for ethnic skin.

Lactic Acid: Derived from milk, milder than glycolic acid, and typically better for working on hyperpigmentation problems. Great for sensitive skin. May occasionally be used in higher concentrations (well above 12% medical grade) as a chemical peel.

Lanolin: emollient and moisturizer; obtained from sheep; a sensitizer like other wool derivatives, in eczema-prone individuals

Lecithin: a water-attracting agent used in products to help hydrate the skin and improve the texture and ease of spread onto the skin.

L-Ergothioneine: naturally occurring antioxidant.

Licorice Extract: skin lightener; deemed as more potent than kojic acid or vitamin C for this function.

Linoleic Acid: used to create emulsions; its EFA origins help to hydrate dry, parched skin. Cosmetic vernacular refers to it as Vitamin F.

Lysine: amino acid incorporated to condition skin  

Niacin: nicotinamide, has been shown to improve the ability of the epidermis, the upper-most layer of the skin, to retain moisture making the skin softer, smoother, less dryness and flakiness, and a reduction of fine lines. Niacinamide, another derivative, has also been shown to be an effective skin lightening agent, especially for skin conditions where hyperpigmention may occur on the face or other visible parts of the body. Topical niacinamide has also been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties,

Octyl Methoxycinnamate: FDA approved chemical sunscreen with contact dermatitis potential in some individuals. Related to Balsum of Peru with cross reactions possible for those with contact dermatitis to either agent.

Octyl Palmitate: allows hydration and works as a solvent without giving skin a greasy texture.

Octyl Salicylate: commonly incorporated into sunscreens for its antibacterial abilities and helps prevent product from turning rancid.

Olive: oli ve leaf extract is one of nature's most powerful broad spectrum anti-microbial agents. It contains an active compound called Oleuropein that wards infection and bacteria growth. Olive leaf extract is also known to fight free-radical oxidation, a major cause of premature aging of the skin.

Oxybenzone: FDA approved UVA absorbing chemical sunscreen ingredient.

PABA: (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid): UVB absorber used in sunscreens during the 1970’s; became a frequent cause of contact dermatitis, therefore it is now out of favor.

Panthenol: a B vitamin (B5), works as a humectant (holds water in the skin). May promote healing.

Parabens: preservatives; deemed safe and unlikely to irritate the skin. widely used for cosmetics; various forms will be listed with the ingredient usually ending in “-paraben”, as in the following word (i.e. methyl paraben).

Petrolatum: heavy bland base, most commonly known for its use in Vaseline; good for sensitive skin however it is occlusive and can cause plugging of the pores and acne in prone individuals.

Physiogenyl™ The activity of Physiogenyl™: is based on the synergy amongst salts of sodium, magnesium, zinc, and manganese. Each of them plays an important role in the cellular metabolism. Physiogenyl™ covers the energy needs of skin cells at the same time providing the skin with a good, natural level of hydration

Polybutene: helps make liquids texturally viscous.

Poly Hydroxy Acid: PHA, derived from the buds of fruit trees, claims to be gentler yet as effective as AHAs; still debatable.

Proline: amino acid vital to the composition and production collagen.

Propylene Glycol: vehicle for cosmetic solutions; excellent for hydrating dry skin but can act as a contact dermatitis sensitizer in prone individuals.

Resveratrol: antioxidant which supports and protects collagen.

Retinol : retinol is one of several natural forms of vitamin A (a derivative of vitamin A) Retinoids are the tamer, non-prescription versions of the vitamin A.  Retinoids contain a less harsh Vitamin A derivative called retinol and only retinoic acid has direct effect on skin cells   ( trans- retinoic acid - TRA ) and can adjust their metabolism toward a more youthful state. In fact, retinoic acid a.k.a. and tretinoin which is known as All- trans retinoic acid - ATRA) is an oxidized derivative of retinol which is the active ingredient in Retin A and Renova - some of the best known anti-wrinkle creams But be careful, you can't go out in the sun after using Vitamin A products!  Tt's just been treated and your skin is very susceptible to skin damage. See tretionoin below under T.

Retinyl Palmitate: (also known as Vitamin A Palmitate); considered a more stable alternative to retinol for normalizing the skin’s texture and helping smooth out fine lines. Is the ester of retinol combined with palmitic acid; thought to be less irritating than retinol. For more information see http://www.vitamins-supplements.org/retinyl-palmitate.php

Retinyl Palmitate Polypeptide: water soluble formulation of Vitamin A.

Rose Hips: botanical extract of rose petals found to have high concentrations of vitamin C.

Rosehip Seed Oil: a natural from of All-trans retinoic acid - ATRA known as tretinoin in   "Renova or Retin-A®". M oisturizes dry, mature, sensitive, aging and problem skin. It is considered a cellular regenerative oil which regenerates scar tissue, attenuates wrinkles and age spots and helps to prevent and fade stretch marks. see Rosehip Seed Oil for more information

Salicylic Acid: classified as a BHA (beta hydroxy acid); Medically as well as cosmetically used as an exfolliant and debriding agent because it penetrates sebum filled follicles and cleans out clogged pores therefore reducing pore size, oiliness, acne and the appearance of fine lines when used as a chemical peel of 1 % and above.

Shea Butter: Shea Butter – also called Karite, comes from the fruit kernels of the shea nut tree. This sweet, pulpy fruit has a wide range of healing properties stemming from its physical make up of vitamins A, E, and cinnamic acid. It has been shown to have positive effects on burns, rashes and severely dry skin. We use it in the Recipe: Shaving Gel because we care about your skin.

Silica: highly oil absorbant.

Silcone: protects the skin and creates a sheen. Thought to be helpful in reducing the appearnce of hypertrophic scars.

Silk Powder: incorporated into cosmetic powders to help absorb skin moisture and oils.

Silk Proteins: prevents dehydration; commonly found in eye rejuvenation creams.

Sodium Bicarbonate: neutralizes acid, making products less irritating; commonly known as baking soda.

Sodium Borate: preservative; related to boric acid; potential irritant.

Sodium Hyaluronate: related to Hyaluronic acid (salt form), works to moisturize the skin; can hold more than 1000 times its own weight in water.

Sodium Laurel Sulfate: used in most cleansers and soaps; acts as a surfactant, offers good foaming qualities; a known skin irritant, but contrary to popular urban myths, does not cause cancer.

Sorbic Acid: preservative; primarily protects product from yeast overgrowth.

Sorbitol: sugar-based ingredient; pulls water by osmosis from the largest source. Typically this is the air, so it helps hydrate skin. In arid conditions, however, water will be pulled out of the skin, resulting in dehydration.

Stearic Acid: Essential fatty acid used in soap manufacturing; may cause irritation.

Sulfur : helps kill normal bacteria on the skin improving acne, seborrhea and psoriasis conditions. Typically found in soaps, shampoos and some topical acne medications.

Titanium Dioxide: physical UV blocker, helps block both UVA and UVB wavelengths of light.

Tretionion : Retin A, Renova available by prescription only) Retin A and Renova are the best known brands of tretinoin (a short for All-trans retinoic acid - ATRA ) , a substance related to but distinct from vitamin A. To be precise, tretinoin is a biologically active metabolite of vitamin A. Tretinoin produces multiple effects in the skin. It works by triggering molecular switches in skin cells called retinoid receptors. These switches affect many intracellular processes including cell growth and differentiation, synthesis of proteins (including collagen and elastin), sebum production, and possibly even the cell's lifespan clock (telomeres). Furthermore, tretinoin indirectly inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), the enzymes that break down collagen and elastin, the skin's key structural proteins. MMP become overactive as we age and contribute to wrinkles and sagging skin. Overall, the biochemical effects of tretinoin are numerous and only some are well researched. Side-effects are not uncommon and include skin-irritation, dryness, peeling and sun sensitivity ( Do not go out in the sun with out sunscreen after treatment) Studies indicate that 0.025 percent tretinoin may be almost as effective as 0.05 or 0.1 percent, but with lower incidence of skin irritation. According to the studies, improvement on tretinoin may continue for up to a year of continued use. See Rosehip Seed Oil for a natural (ATRA)

Triclosan: used as a preservative; felt to be hypoallergenic.

Tyrosine: amino acid that stimulates fibroblasts to make more collagen when paired with ascorbic acid; plays a role in melanin formation.

Vitamin A: ( Retinol)- (Re tinyl Palmitate)- (Retinyl Palmitate Polypeptide)-(Tretinoin)There are so many different forms of vitamin A. (Tretinoin being the most effective and studied) Each one has it's own factors to it ability. However Tretionion has been showed to stimulate skin cell renewal (miotic cell division) stimulate the binding of epidermal growth factor to skin cells. Improves function in natural aged, photo-aged, and sun protected skin. Reduces levels of a collagen degrading enzyme. Increased collagen synthesis. Absorbs ultraviolet light to help protect skin from free radical damage. While the other forms of vitamin A has showed a less effective effect. In excessive use, it will dry out skin, give a feeling of tightness, may cause the skin to flake or peel and it is very sun sensitivity after treatment. ( avoid sun or use sun screen after treatment) as with any high grade ingredient follow direction and don't over indulge!

Vitamin B: helps improve chemical effectiveness; found in products such as Cellex-C Hydra 5-B.

Vitamin C: used as an antioxidant in its L-ascorbic acid form, helps prevent ultraviolet light damage to the skin. Can have skin lightening effect with higher percentageages. It has been reported to keep as well as rebuilding healthy collagen fibers. Althought penatration into skin is difficulte it is a film type application but needed for skin protection. Shelf life is short, up to 3 months if not in a dark cool environment.

Vitamin D: regulates cell turn over; used in prescription derivatives to help control psoriasis (Dovonex).

Vitamin E: Tocopherol; antioxidant; helps prevent ultraviolet light damage to the skin, so is incorporated into a variety of cosmetic as well as sunscreen preparations. Helps to moisturizer skin as it is oil-soluble.

Vitamin K: vitamin K and niacin, also known as vitamin B-3. are beneficial to the skin, specifically for problems involving pigmentation and dry skin.” dermatologists have recently found vitamin K to be successful for the treatment for dark circles under the eyes and bruising on the face. Reportedly helps to reduce the appearance of spider veins..

Niacin: nicotinamide, has been shown to improve the ability of the epidermis, the upper-most layer of the skin, to retain moisture making the skin softer, smoother, less dryness and flakiness, and a reduction of fine lines. Niacinamide, another derivative, has also been shown to be an effective skin lightening agent, especially for skin conditions where hyperpigmention may occur on the face or other visible parts of the body. Topical niacinamide has also been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties,

Water: most frequently listed main ingredient in skin care products, used in its purest form, void of minerals and other chemicals, hence the various names like distilled, deionized, purified, etc.

Witch Hazel: botanical with astringent properties, helps remove excess surface skin oils.

Xanthan Gum: thickening agent.

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